The reason I suggest greasing is when I removed screws form my 28 DB the threads were so rusted and some so rusty that it just turned without backing out. Of course there night be areas where it must be avoided. It goes in easier If put too much and it spit out at the head wipe it off with a wet varsol cloth. I pre drill and use a touch of grease at the tip of the screw. At that point, a hammered-on socket and (if there's room) an impact wrench solves the problem every time. Invariably there will be one stubborn cotter that refuses to come out and all of the above just breaks the end. I use channel-lock style pliers and lever the pin out. With the diagonal cutter pliers one tool does it all. And for that pliers are needed to straighten the tails well enough. I have one of the cotter pin puller hook handles, but the tails of the pin have to be very close together to get it to work because there's no leverage force like the pliers can do. And as Tin pointed out, that leverage is strong enough pulling force that often they can be jacked out even if the pin still has the tails spread. Sailboat rigging pliers have a wire cutter built into the plier jaws and it makes quick work of pulling out the most stubborn cotter pins.īy pinching with the pliers and levering against the surface, as Tinindian said, then move the pliers down close to the nut and pinch the pin again, by repeating that you can "jack" out any size or length cotter pin because it exerts enough force to easily pull cotter pins that are stuck with rust and dirt. That is the same way I learned to easily "jack" stubborn cotter pins put of sail boat rigging, when I worked in boat yards over 45 years ago. Usually I do not even have to un bend the pin. Catch the head of the cotter pin with the blades of the pliers with the end of the pliers against the nut and use the pliers as a lever to pull the pin. I use a large pair of diagonal cutter pliers. I have found very few original static collectors because of poorly place pins.Įdited Septemby m-mman (see edit history) Very happy that it was mild steel.Īlso on front wheels if there is a static collector under the hub cover (1950s & 60s) the folded over leg needs to be cut short to insure that it doesnt grab and destroy the collector which runs against the end of the spindle. Once I clipped and trimmed and tugged and still had to unscrew the nut over the remains of a pin that was still partially in place. Sometimes I have been lucky enough to clip the head and work out one leg which allows a little room for the other leg to jiggle out. The ball joints seem to get badly crudded up with grease that then attracts dirt, and somehow they also become rusted in the hole. On suspensions (front ball joints and tire rod ends), I like to leave the head sticking out a bit to make it easier to grasp later with the diagonal cutting pliers. Sometimes just bending one leg to hole it in place is a challenge. The beautiful twists shown above assume that you can actually get a needle nose or dikes into position to bend them pretty. I checked my current version of Machinery's Handbook and a reputable book on machine design - they were both remarkably silent about installing cotter pins though they had all the dimensions for standard cotter pins and castle nuts.ĭoes anyone know a definitive reference on the subject? I confess that as a kid, and short of a new cotter pin, I inserted a finishing nail and bent it over - more than once. I also saw a video claiming that the short end should be left straight and not bent down around the nut - also seems wrong and leaves a pointy end to snag you. Besides being ugly, this doesn't seem right. Yet, I see all kinds of demonstrations and photos - including from fastener suppliers - showing the cotter pin inserted with the head rotated 90 degrees and the two ends bent in opposite directions around the nut . Bend the short end down over the face of the nut, trimming as required to prevent snagging yourself later. With a finger or tool, bend the long end up and over the end of the bolt or shaft, tap it down tight. The longer end of the cotter pin is up so it's easy to grab. The head is positioned with the long dimension aligned with the shaft or bolt so it fits completely in the slot of the castle nut. Insert the pin in the hole until the head bottoms. Here's what I now think is the right way: I've been doing this for about 60 years but was never taught the correct procedure. But, there must be a right way to insert the pin and bend the ends. It seems simple enough: spin on a castle nut and torque it down, insert a cotter pin through the hole in the threaded shaft or bolt, bend the ends over.
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